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KALA RAKSHA VIDHYALAYA:
AN INSTITUTION OF DESIGN FOR TRADITIONAL ARTISANS
In its second decade, Kala Raksha is addressing India’s most
pressing need: Education. In October 2005, Kala Raksha launched a
design school for working traditional artisans of Kutch. This
educational institution, whose environment, curriculum and
methodology are designed to be appropriate for traditional artisans,
is intended to model a new approach to the rejuvenation of
traditional arts. Project Director of KRV, Judy Frater, was awarded
an
Ashoka Foundation Fellowship
to realize the project. In March 2009 she received the
Sir Misha Black Medal
for Distinguished Services to Design Education.
And in
2011, she received the Crafts Council of India Kamala award for
service to the field of crafts.
Concept of the Design School for Artisans
Kala Raksha Vidhyalaya is an educational institution with a direct
marketing link, open to working artisans of Kutch, conservatively
estimated at 50,000. The focus of the school is on acquiring
knowledge and skills that can be directly applied in the artisan’s
own art to enable innovation appropriate to contemporary markets.
Rationale and Structure
Working artisans rarely have the luxury of leaving their home and
profession for long periods of time. Therefore, the curriculum is
designed as a series of modular classes which are conducted over a
period of one year in a residential local setting.
Design Instruction and Institutional
Links
Kala Raksha has well established links with premier Indian design
institutions, including the National Institution of Design (NID),
the National Institute of Fashion Technology (NIFT), Srishti Design
Institute, and the Indian Institute of Crafts & Design (IICD).
Faculty from NID and NIFT are advisors in establishing Kala Raksha
Vidhyalaya. In addition, Project Director Judy Frater mobilized a
team including faculty from the Fashion Institute of Technology, NY,
and the Rhode Island School of Design to develop the basic
curriculum for Kala Raksha Vidhyalaya.
Kala Raksha Vidhyalaya is situated on 8 acres in Mundra Taluka, a
peaceful rural setting near the coast of the Gulf of Kutch. A
spacious guest house designed by Architect R. J. Vasavada, and craft
studios and student hostels and exhibition hall designed by
Architect Hemen Sanghvi today host the courses.
CAD Center
A Computer Aided Design Center is a vital part of the educational
program. Presently, this Center as well as a sampling studio are
housed in the existing facilities.
Course Content and Development
Kala
Raksha Vidhyalaya’s curriculum is a work in process. In its quest to
insure the relevance of education specifically for traditional
artisans, the institute observes impacts and innovates on content
and structure of courses. Revisions are also made to address
the changing needs of the artisans and the ever developing market
scenario. The year long course now has six intensive two week
sessions: 1. Colour: Sourcing from Heritage and Nature, 2. Basic
Design, Sourcing from Nature and Heritage, 3. Market Orientation, 4.
Concept, Communication, Projects, 5. Finishing and Collection
Development, 6. Presentation. Together these form a comprehensive
process in developing tradition-based products for contemporary
markets.
Examples of innovations that have evolved in our four years
of operation are the addition of a critical component of
meeting craft consumers as well as visiting shops in a field
trip to Ahmedabad, and equipping non-literate artisans with
a language of visual symbols to analyze their experiences,
transcending the lack of conventional literacy.
In the finishing and presentation courses, mock juries of
Kala Raksha staff and artisans’ relatives were added. These
prepare the students for their final professional jury, and
engage family members in the students’ hard work. In the
third year, the problem of product design was addressed.
Textile artisans cannot learn effective product design in a
year. Yet, as product is supremely important, we sought a
sustainable solution. Urban design school students were
engaged, not to give designs to KRV students, but to be
their clients. The artisan students presented their briefs
and chose from concepts presented by the urban design
students. The result was a range of new product designs, and
the introduction of new perceptions in roles and abilities.
Male and female artisans attend courses separately,
conforming to social norms. We have learned to appreciate
and support the courage it takes for women to participate in
the KRV course. The pressure against women’s education is
great.
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Visiting Faculty are design education professionals from
India and abroad, and well prepared to work with traditional
artisans. Students and Visiting Faculty reside together on
the campus. Course content is presented in the craft
studios as well as classrooms, and the priority is always
for artisans to implement theory in their respective media. Students and faculty access Kala Raksha’s local resources:
Master Artisans from our Advisory Board, the local natural
surroundings, and Kala Raksha Center, where they study
contemporary work in the shop and traditional pieces in the
Kala Raksha Museum. Through the course, the students learn
to critique and question. KRV is increasingly a place where
learning is mutual. The wide range of ages in classes
enables everyone to understand that there is no age limit
for learning. The elders’ experience enables grasping new
concepts, and the younger members learn of tradition from
elders.
Each student works toward creating a final collection. These are juried by
a panel of
eminent experts in craft. The Convocation Mela is a much
anticipated two days of celebration, with over 6,000
people visiting the campus. This
is a chance for the students to test their work on buyers
and professionals in the field. One student said it was
worth another whole class. At the same time KRV is
educating artisans to become designers, the public must be
educated about their creativity and capacity. The annual
Convocation fashion show has motivated students, and has
been an important instrument in educating the public to
think about craft in other ways.
As
one student eloquently expressed his experiences, “When a visiting
designer talked about giving designs to artisans and our
teacher told her we are doing something completely
different, I felt good. The importance of Kala Raksha is
that it respects us as creative people. This will insure the
perpetuation of our craft.” This fundamental change in
awareness, self respect and confidence is cultural
sustainability, which will insure the vibrancy of
traditional art.
EVALUATION
An
evaluation of the Kala Raksha Vidhyalaya program was conducted by
Mr. Ashoke Chatterjee, President of Crafts Council of India and
former Director, National Institute of Design (NID), Ahmedabad. The
thorough analysis of the project has been the basis of development
of a plan for scaling up the institute. A copy of the evaluation and
scaling up plan are available on request.
DEVELOPMENT OF LEARNING MATERIALS
From the first class it became clear that to insure that the
institution is successful in terms of its vision, guidelines
in curriculum and syllabus development, as well as in
methodology must be provided to the visiting faculty. A unit
to teach fibers and structures has been produced. Efforts
are now concentrated on developing material to elucidate the
indigenous concepts of design and aesthetics, including
indigenous vocabulary and means of assessing quality.
MARKET INPUT
Efforts in the development of the institute will also focus
on establishing long lasting market links for graduates. Kala Raksha will play a key role in this aspect of
development, and plans to expand its Marketing Department to
accommodate increased and varied production.
This year, e-portfolios of graduate artisan designers will
be added to the Kala Raksha website.
KRV
FILMS!
With
generous funding from UNESCO and Eileen Fisher, Kala Raksha
produced the film “Artisans Design!” documenting the first
year of Kala Raksha Vidhyalaya. In 2010 we completed “The Masters’ Voices” a series
of six
short films on Master Artisans’ understanding design in
traditional textiles,
and a single summary film framed as a discussion among
artisans of different crafts.
The project was supported by Dorabji
Tata Trust, Seagate and Global Giving. The films present a
poignant portrayal of traditions in transition, and a
tribute to the creativity of the artisan.
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KRV Impact
In March 2011, Kala Raksha Vidhayala
conducted an assessment of its impact on women graduates. With the
exception of those who have been severely impacted by industry in
extreme proximity to their villages, all of the graduates have
clearly benefited in terms of increased income and improved work
patterns. The products they have designed have been appreciated. To view the full report
click here.
In 2010 KRV conducted an assessment of its impact
on 50 of our 90 graduates:
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100% of the students are
of the opinion that they have learned something new in their craft
and are completely satisfied.
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Nearly 34% who have gotten
employment have become independent because of Kala Raksha and the
learning they received at Kala Raksha Vidhyalaya.
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14% have increased their
income by 50%.
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20% have doubled their
income.
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4% have raised their
income by five times.
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4% have raised their
income by ten times.
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1% have raised their
earning by twenty times.
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28% of students are
recent graduates from Kala Raksha Vidhyalaya and are hopeful for
the future and about to start something new soon.
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20% to 25% have started
working on their own instead of doing job work.
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Nearly 50% to 60% have
come in contact with and begun collaboration with other NGOs and
Clients through Kala Raksha.
Some excerpts from interviews with KRV graduates
follow:
Tejuben- “Stepping into KRV, we started using our
brains.”
Halimabai- “I find a difference in my past work
and present work. Earlier we got threads and fabrics and did the
embroidery any way. In the class we learned many things and the
Ahmedabad visit was an amazing experience of my life,”
Hariyaben- “Coming to Kala Raksha Vidhyalaya, I
not only learned but also got involved in the process of teaching. I
observed the teaching process and for six months afterwards ran
classes to guide artisans to make new designs in Suf.”
Ramjibhai- “My weaving earned me only Rs. 2000 or
2500 per month and I was going to stop weaving and join a factory to
earn at least Rs. 3000 to 4000 per month, but suddenly KRV gave me
an opportunity and not only my art but also my life survived…We wove
just by copying others; we didn’t know the term “market,” and
“costing” was something strange to us. Now we prepare products
looking to the needs of the customers, seasons and even the country
to which they belong.”
Aziz- “Earlier we were afraid to take risks in
our craft and when I came to Kala Raksha, in the beginning I thought
KRV people will starve us if I follow them and their ideas. But
suddenly in the marketing course I learned everything gradually and
understood the depth of business and now I am quite happy to have
studied at Kala Raksha Vidhyalaya. After I completed my graduation I
started implementing new ideas and my brother, father and other
people laughed at me. But when I received a good response in the
market after a short period, everyone started appreciating me and we
sent my brother to KRV so that he can also help me doing new
things.”
Suleman- “Now we can
create fifty designs out of a single object and out of fifty, five
will be sold at extempore and the other forty five would be well
received in the near future. And out of our twenty samples,
customers would pick up fifteen on the spot and the other five soon
after.”
Rajesh- “The most important thing I have learned from Kala Raksha is
love for my craft.”
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INSTITUTIONAL
DEVELOPMENT
KRV Workshops to the
World!
In January 2011, KRV held
the pilot of a workshop program with international design students
and faculty. In December 2011, we conducted another academic program
with students from Oregon State University, led by KRV Visiting
Faculty and OSU Faculty Nancy Froelich. The workshop earned the
students college credits in the USA! The students took a four day
tour of Kutch, and then decided the theme "Transition" for their
collections. They spent four days working with women embroidery and
patchwork artisans, and four days working with men weavers, block
printers, batik and bandhani artists. The American graphic design
students co-created collections of innovative scarves with the KRV
graduates. Everyone learned new processes.
Christin-
"I enjoyed the creative energy of
working in a group."
Danielle-"This
was the best experience of my life so far!"
Tod-"We
learned so much more than in a classroom at home."
Bhagvatiben-
"Working together was a whole new
experience."
Champaben-
"They learned a lot, we learned a
lot- new products, new aesthetics.
If they learn, we learn."
Irfan-
"I learned enough for a whole new
collection."
The workshops take KRV a big step forward in becoming
financially sustainable, and in addition open new markets for KRV
alumni- teachers. It is a win-win proposition! For information, please
download our proposal.
E-Portfolios
and KRV Alumni
KRV’s new website
www.kala-raksha-vidhyalaya.org
is growing. The portfolios are still under construction so
visit with patience and anticipation.
This year, The Victoria
and Albert Museum in UK contacted KRV through the website and are
choosing several graduates to participate in an international
exhibition on Indian design.
2006 Graduate Lachhuben
Raja and Pabiben Soma will represent Kala Raksha in the 2012 Santa
Fe International Folk Art Market.
2008 Graduate Abdul Rauf
Razakhbhai Khatri won the President's award for craftsmanship.
The third group of women
design interns made their final collection of stunning Art to Wear
jackets, stoles and shawls for the Mumbai market. The collection was
launched at the KRV Fashion Show and sold out in Mumbai in December
2011.
Kala Raksha is now on Facebook.

And join a discussion on issues of craft and design on our blog
www.kala-raksha-blog.org
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THE FUTURE OF KRV
The
gap between our nature based institute and the impending industrial
jungle could not be larger nor more painful. While we much
appreciate the support of Adani Foundation and Tata Power/CGPL for
our annual Mela, due to construction of their two massive coal fed
thermal power plants in extremely close proximity, our location will
have to change. Relocation will incur huge costs in terms of money,
time and spiritual energy. Financial constraints have delayed
relocation. Despite our resounding success and continual creative
explorations, the future of KRV’s site remains a question.
Nonetheless we look forward to an exciting and ambitious plan to
scale up and serve artisan communities. And we look to our
supporters to help us through the period ahead!
For further information, contact
designschool@kala-raksha.org or
judyf@kala-raksha.org
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